FAQ

Are Signatario Shirts cotton shirts?

Signatario Shirts are 100% fine cotton shirts. With a minimum of 120 thread count (top 1% of world’s luxury cotton output), the fabric are sourced from the top global mills.

 

What type of FIT does Signatario offer?

Signatario shirts at the moment offer only REGULAR Fits and in sizes 39,40,42,44 & 46. To ensure you have the right fit and clear any doubts you may have, kindly visit our FIT & Size section (https://signatario.co.in/fit-size-guide)

 

What makes Signatario Shirt different?

Signatario shirts are essentially made to meet the finest criteria for luxury shirts. While every commercial brand globally makes shirts to suit every man, there are compromises made to meet the costs and prices. Signatario shirts target typically only the top 20% of shirt wearers who buy the product of their choice than a shirt that meets a certain price. The difference is very visible and perceivable to both the wearer as well as those who see them. More of the differences can be read in our section (https://signatario.co.in/why-signatario-shirts)

 

What is the Price of a Signatario Shirt?

The brand is built around a philosophy to keep things simple and play it honest. Our strength is to provide our customers a product that puts a “wow” in his mind. We do not compromise on product quality, materials, workmanship etc just to sell more people our shirts. We benchmark with the top global luxury brands in terms of quality and fineness of fabrics and materials etc. However, we believe in making Luxury shirts essentials for our customers. Therefore, we knock off the celebrities, real estate and chandeliers to sell only direct to our customers worldwide online without any middleman to give you fantastic prices always.

We are typically a year around “Buy More Save More” prices. Now on Clearance Sale for very short period of time. Hurry!Learn more at (https://signatario.co.in/offers-promotions). To keep the spirit of our buy more save more program, even on Sale, you will gain more as you buy more. (Reduced prices and buy more to save more discounts applies automatically when you checkout your cart based on the quantity added). It applies evenly to any currency of choice you use to shop at Signatario.


 



Where can I buy the Signatario Shirt?

We are available in our boutique in Mumbai, India (Signatario, G 72 Heera Panna Shopping Centre, Hiranandani Gardens, Mumbai 400076). We are not available with any other retailer anywhere in the world.

We serve our customers worldwide online through www.signatario.co.in

Delivery is Free anywhere within India and takes typically 1-3 days at the maximum. Global orders are charges “actual” shipping cost based on Global Speedpost rates which are transparent. We do not wish to saddle you with any cost that is not fair for shipping. (https://signatario.co.in/policy)

 

What is Signatario’s Return Policy?

We do not believe in pushing our products through to an unwilling customer. We have worked hard to ensure that every customer makes any informed buy of the shirt he chooses. Signatario ensures that complete details on the product is available (much more than what is usually done as a practice) and also offers online chat help or telephonic assistance if needed before making a purchase. Similarly, we ensure our products are 100% defect free to eliminate any chance for returns on account of product quality.

For the chance occasion where a genuine customer makes an inadvertent error of judgement esp. relating to size etc, we give a time period of 7 days for the customer to return the products in unused and original condition back to us for us to exchange/ refund. Read details here (https://signatario.co.in/policy)

We do not extend a return policy for our overseas customers at the moment due to complex issues of inbound customs duty and foreign exchange remittances involved.  

 

What makes a fine shirt different and special?

Shirts are common and perhaps less understood too. While they may look similar compromises on product quality get masked easily by the shrill pitch of marketing campaigns. The key qualities of a good shirt are

1.     The fabric forms the heart of the shirt and its quality is the most important aspect. It must retain its quality; wash after wash, through its lifetime. The finer the yarns, the better its breathability in a hot and humid weather, besides the silk like comfort and perpetual natural lustre which are properties of only the highest end cotton fibre. A mere look at the shirts is enough to differentiate. Worldwide the finest shirt makers in Italy or in England will proudly say that they work with the best fibres rather than try to market with some finish and coating. You market products with coating to mask the quality of inherent fibres in the fabric most times.

2.     The pride of a shirt is its firm collar. A drooping and wrinkled collar is a sore sight. A good quality can be made only with superior interlinings and good process control. With some experience just the feel can tell you if the collar will last long. A fine shirt always sports a proud collar. Look around and you will be surprised that it is hard to find good collars.

3.     Comfort is an important aspect that a good craftsman builds into the shirt with skill and intelligence. How the fabric is used in different places of the shirt speaks volumes about this. Look for details like a carefully constructed split yoke shoulder that makes arm movements effortless. Best shirts will never ignore these fine details. While it may not be so apparent, there is science to integrate body movement patterns to cuts in the fabric and the good shirt makers will not compromise comfort for just looks alone.

4.     Look for the variety a shirt maker brings to the collection. If he is able to ensure the details are good across patterns then you can fairly know that skilled craftsmen have made these shirts. You will seldom see ordinary shirt makers play with complex and intricate pattern and weaves on fabrics.

5.     Likewise, there are some more details that confirm the interest of the shirt maker. These include the way button holes are made, the choice of sewing threads to suit the fineness of the yarns etc. A poorly made shirt is easily visible in comparison and the details will often stick as an eyesore. Once you have seen and experienced well made shirts you will just not feel like going back to an ordinary one ever. Awareness builds tastes and changes habits forever.

 

Why are good shirts so rare and what are the commercial brands selling?

Shirts are today made for all requirements. Most commercial brands grow in size to be able to cater to as wide a market as possible. Requirements vary from a basic functional requirement to have defining standards that identifies well with the attributes of the wearer. Compromises on various features of the product therefore separates one brand from another.

The single biggest area where compromises are made in commercial branded shirts is the fabric – They choice of fabric varies from polyester fabric, cotton-polyester blends, 100% cotton fabrics (lower grade cotton to the highest grade and fineness, coated fabrics for instant appeal to natural finishes).

The next difference will be in the way a shirt is constructed – priority to saving cloth to a priority to comfort for the wearer. This is reflected in the comfort and fit most times

The last general point of variance is quality of workmanship –cheap accessories like collars that appear plastic like, very visible stitch holes along joints, visible seams with thicker threads that stand out, poorly finished buttons and button holes.

Most brands commercially available will fall into this wide range defined. Majority commercial brands including very large ones will pick the most valuable part of the shirt for compromise – fabric. Therefore, it is not unnatural to see 99% of shirts available in the world closer to the range of 50s to 70s thread count cotton. It is this reason that most customers also feel indifferent to the different brands they try as broadly they follow similar methods and though process to make your shirts

Signatario Shirts are made with an intent to stick to the highest standards that the finest luxury brands hold. We differ from them in the way we see our products and business. Our strength is purely on the product attributes. While the Earls and the Barons may find Signatario Shirts indistinguishable from their Luxury brand choices, every customer of ours is as special as a royalty because he appreciated the value in the products.



What are the coatings on cotton fabrics? Why are they done? Blended Cotton Fabrics?

Fibres are plenty to make clothes and there is competition in this space. Technology is progressively making new inroads to improve man-made fibres. Cotton is still the preferred choice especially so among the more informed customers.

Man made fabrics like polyesters, rayon, viscose are far cheaper than cotton. The artificial fibres have sheen and shine which lasts lifetime and can be very light too. But all man-made fibres are water repelling. They will not absorb water and moisture and trap heat within them. This is the worst thing to have in a tropical climate. The breathability of fabric is best in natural fabric like cotton and linen. With breathability an issue, additional technological solution comes our way with dri-fit by having layers and playing with the structure of the yarn to absorb extreme sweat etc. Despite all, the climatic conditions don’t help wearing artificial fibres for long and in the open. Variants keep coming into the market with names changing every time with half-truths in marketing campaigns which will liberally use words like natural, liquid, intelligent, smart etc. They have their use as a cost effective medium and are liberally used in today’ world of fast fashion where use and throw concept necessitates lower cost. One must remember that these innovations have come from the West where the climatic conditions ensure that the man-made fibres don’t hurt you as much as in tropical and humid weather of Asia.

Coated fabrics (stain free, odour free, wrinkle free) are at times used to boost marketing campaigns in lieu of higher quality fabrics. This is achieved by special treatments on the fabric. For instance a nano silver particle treatment is a well known method to produce odour free coatings. However, with sweat & oil secreted which become sticky the coatings are often times rendered less worthwhile within a couple of washes. Studies have proved that more than 35%-50% of nano silver particles are washed away within a couple of washes rendering the efforts and investment futile! These washed Silver ions are extremely harmful to aquatic animals and are serious pollutants is yet another matter though. Other options include using anti microbial triclosan which some soaps too advertise heavily. These coating too don’t last beyond a few wash and also react with skin at times to form complex compounds blocking pores.

Treated Cotton fabrics with features like never iron, wrinkle free or stain free are brought about by altering the cellulose bonds with specialised coatings and baking them to keep the broken bonds in place. That could be seen as a layman’ understanding behind non iron shirts. The longevity of the coatings is subjective beyond half a dozen washes. The coatings while helping you to get rid of ironing shirts compromise on breathability and absorption ability of the fibre.

Fine cotton fabrics will show some crease at the end of the day. You will see these happening not as much from crumpling (physical stress as in case of coarse linen) but because it absorbs the tiny sweat drops you create. You will notice it in the joints of your arms in general. But this is a quality of cotton for which it is treasured and considered healthy to wear in tropical climates. Water molecules break the long cellulose chain when they are absorbed. It is this reason why it is easy to iron fine cotton inside out and using a bit of moisture (water or steam). The mild moisture allows the heat of the iron to have the shape you want while ironing.

Summary, natural fibre is the best your body needs. Cotton does not have a natural affinity to bond with any artificial coating making them short lived. Technology may help come very close to nature but it is not quite there in every aspect at least as yet.



Why are collars in most shirts drooping and out of shape?

The pride of a shirt is the uprightness of its collar through its lifetime. The choice of interlinings that make the collars and the process of making the collars decide the pride of your shirt.

Good interlinings are rare. Over the years there are plenty of mass produced interlinings in the market. But none of them gives you the consistency and quality that allows you to confidently say that my shirts have firm collars.

The best interlinings are very few to choose from. The ability to choose a good interlining and differentiate from the poorer but similar looking ones is not there with most. A good understanding of the process, chemistry, fabric and the role of the interlinings helps in choosing the best ones.

Good interlinings simply explained have a few roles.

a.     It should provide stiffness and support to the fabric and provide a firm collar while remaining soft enough not to hurt your neck.

b.     The material used must ensure that the differential shrinkage between the interlining and cloth should not cause ugly warping and wrinkles after a few washes and rounds of ironing.

c.      The resin used must of high quality to ensure the bonding is for life. A good resin ensure properties and get cured fully when the collar is being made
An easy test will be to see if your collar can retain shape or if there are wrinkles on the inside part of the collar after a couple of washes. You should be able to crush your collar easily without feeling like crushing a plastic like thing. We can guarantee that 9 in 10 of the shirts around you would not pass this simple test.

The final part of the collar and cuff making comes with process control. The process parameters are fixed after experimentation. It has a direct co-relation with the varieties and quality of fabric you use in making your different shirts. It is also this reason that shirt brands which try to make shirts for every budget and therefore use all kinds of fabric often compromise in the quality and consistency of the collars and cuffs made. The right space for the bend in the collar ensures you do not wear away the cloth on top of the interlining because of the strain. This is a reason when you see torn fabric in the joints/ bend in the collar from inside.

A shirt appears to be a simple product but in a carefully crafted shirt you will see plenty of instances to say that it is a blend of art, skill, science and engineering. Understanding the body part movement, ratios of body part like neck, shoulder etc allows you to craft better collars that stand stiff and proud giving the majestic look a shirt should give.



What brings a lustre/ shine in a fabric?

The lustre is either natural or brought about with artificial coatings or blend of artificial fibres. We will discuss the lustre as it appears in nature with cotton fibres. The top quality cotton fibre as it is naturally occurs is very fine. The micronaire of the fibre, its uniformity are product of nature. This low and uniform micronaire of the fibre results in for best reflectance. Its ability to absorb light is a lot lesser than other fibres and the uniformity ensure scattering of light is minimal. Speaking in layman’ terms, what you see is a nature’ way of showing total internal reflection when you see a close set of very fine fibres woven together! Therefore a lasting sheen and lustre is largely a function of the grade of cotton alone.

While the best fibres bring in natural attributes for high reflectance and uniformity etc, processing abilities and a good control on that is achieved by very few mills. Dyeing is another important process where process control and abilities vary so much that for the same thread count fabrics made by different mills will clearly show who excels the game. The kind of dye also matters. While mordant dyes are seen across the world, very few mills world over have expertise when it comes to vat dyes. The skill levels needed for accuracy and uniform penetration and after treatment makes the kings what they are despite the competition from thousands of ‘large” mills. Such mills are barely more than a dozen and these specialise in fine fabrics. Fine yarns allow better dye penetration and control and allow richer colours too.

Now we move to understand lustre in fabrics as marketed by several mills. When the grade of cotton fibre is less than the best, the resulting fabric has several flaws which affect the dyeing, lustre etc. For fabrics to be attractive certain minimum lustre helps and this is attained by treating the fabrics with several processes. Each company tries to make slight variations and call these coatings by different names to market them as unique. Essentially by having a very fine coating over the yarn/ fabric, we are ensuring that light is falling on an uniform surface, typically a polymer based layer akin to a coating of fine film of polyester (word used for sake of better understanding). These layers are no more than a few microns in thickness and typically break away over the first few washes. This is a reason why you see most fabrics lose their shine and glow after a few washes.

With the rationale and science behind the sheen explained, you will see that polyester and cotton-polyester blended fabrics are shinier in appearance. Many fast fashion products are typically reliant on man made fibres which are much cheaper than cotton and have an appearance that can draw the impulsive nature in a customer with its shine.

Summary, go for best mills and fine fabrics - be assured of the quality, lustre, feel etc for life. These mills have thrived for generations and centuries in pursuit of creating the finest fabrics with a passion and zeal that makes them tower about the rest. They do not spread their offerings to cater to mass market requirements and remain focus on excellence in the premium category preserving their unique identity.